Weight?
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Tebosmyman
- Suckling
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:20 pm
- Location: Rhode Island
- Contact:
Weight?
Hey everyone! Just a question, maybe some of you could help me out. Whats the best grain to put your horse on if you want him to gain weight. 17years old, used for light riding, jumping, showing, dressage, etc. Thoroughbred Gelding...hes not that skinny but i would like to see some kind of excess bulk to him. If anyone can help me id greatly appriciate it. Also, what stops cribbing? I tried the miracle collor and it didnt work, neither did hot sauce...help! Thanks so much 
~*~Natalie~*~
purina has a feed that is high fat and easily digested called ultium (probably spelling wrong) it put weight on my 24 year old intestinal cancer gelding. I don't know about the cribbing my cribbers stop with a collar.
"The blood runs hot in the Thoroughbred and the courage runs deep.
In the best of them, pride is limitless. This is their heritage and
they carry it like a banner. What they have, they use."
---C. W. Anderson
In the best of them, pride is limitless. This is their heritage and
they carry it like a banner. What they have, they use."
---C. W. Anderson
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NW Breeder
- Weanling
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 6:24 pm
- Location: Oregon
Here is something that has done quite well for us: We have noticed the best weight gain on our sales yearlings is achieved by using StrongidC (a daily wormer) after a thorough worming with Quest or Gold and adding a 1/4 cup of corn oil per feeding to our existing regimen. The corn oil is a great source of fat and the StrongidC seems to enhance feed utilization. On the other hand you can purchase a myriad of supplements and additives such as Fastrack to accomplish the same thing.
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Sylvie Hebert
- Restricted Stakes Winner
- Posts: 778
- Joined: Thu Sep 16, 2004 12:19 pm
- Location: canada
cribbers are notorious bad doers.try if he is stabled to make his stall crib-proof:buckets,feeders and waterers at floor level,space between bars or any area he can grab put Cribox on,sticky and messy but very efficient.if he is out electric wire on boards,if electric fencing cribox on top of posts,again feeders and water at ground level.lots of work but most of times work and keep him hay all times.
The sport and industry survive not only because of the champions that are remembered forever but also because of the losers that are so easy to forget...
- Alibhai's Alibar
- Yearling
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2004 3:45 pm
- Location: Rutherford, NJ
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Another aspect of the Strongid C improving a horse's ability to utilize nutrition - I've experienced it greatly improving the hoof of horse's taking this daily wormer. (Warning....there's a bit of a story in this story....)
In particular I've used it on a true "resue" horse I bought several years ago to take it away from it's owner - a registered 3yo American Saddlebred filly that I could literally see her heart beat inside of her ribs she was so malnourished. I "purchased" her for $300.00 with papers. I put her on the daily Strongid after first doing a serious paste worming. Her feet were not in trim at all, very long toed with serious splits, chips and cracks up to the coronet band. An initial trim - conservative though it was - to even get close to a normal balance left her so sore that she laid down for three solid days - even with the round bale in short walking distance! Figuring she was a goner, I called the vet to hear what I was sure was the inevitable: 'she needs to be put down - there's no hope'. Instead he informed me the only thing wrong with her was that she was extremely sore in all four feet - no hoof, no horse. (Took the hay and water to her until she felt ready to get up!) As her feet grew out I noticed the new material was extremely healthy and sound, very strong and it seemed to grow twice as fast as is normal. The vet also told me to expect a hoof absess as she gained weight and new hoof grew out but that didn't happen until after I sold her...and she vet checked sound as a dollar 1 month before the sale, later developing an absess in one of her front feet's sole. Funny thing about this young mare - she was quite well bred but not by one of the widely popular sires in ASBs and her sire stood in Missouri. The woman who purchased her from me moved to Illinois a year later and took the filly with her, deciding after she became pregnant to have the filly bred and taking her to a nearby "Saddlebred" farm for that purpose. The farmer took a look at the papers and guess what - five years later this filly from Texas - that darn near starved to death had arrived at the same farm where her sire had stood and where she herself was bred!! The farmer was so glad to see this daughter of his old stallion that he traded the woman a well trained ASB gelding - better for her purposes as a pleasure mount - for the filly right on the spot...and "Miss Pygy" (as we called her, short for Pygmalion and descriptive of her interest in food) had found herself a permanent home....Should have nicknamed her "Lucky" or "Homer" I guess!
In particular I've used it on a true "resue" horse I bought several years ago to take it away from it's owner - a registered 3yo American Saddlebred filly that I could literally see her heart beat inside of her ribs she was so malnourished. I "purchased" her for $300.00 with papers. I put her on the daily Strongid after first doing a serious paste worming. Her feet were not in trim at all, very long toed with serious splits, chips and cracks up to the coronet band. An initial trim - conservative though it was - to even get close to a normal balance left her so sore that she laid down for three solid days - even with the round bale in short walking distance! Figuring she was a goner, I called the vet to hear what I was sure was the inevitable: 'she needs to be put down - there's no hope'. Instead he informed me the only thing wrong with her was that she was extremely sore in all four feet - no hoof, no horse. (Took the hay and water to her until she felt ready to get up!) As her feet grew out I noticed the new material was extremely healthy and sound, very strong and it seemed to grow twice as fast as is normal. The vet also told me to expect a hoof absess as she gained weight and new hoof grew out but that didn't happen until after I sold her...and she vet checked sound as a dollar 1 month before the sale, later developing an absess in one of her front feet's sole. Funny thing about this young mare - she was quite well bred but not by one of the widely popular sires in ASBs and her sire stood in Missouri. The woman who purchased her from me moved to Illinois a year later and took the filly with her, deciding after she became pregnant to have the filly bred and taking her to a nearby "Saddlebred" farm for that purpose. The farmer took a look at the papers and guess what - five years later this filly from Texas - that darn near starved to death had arrived at the same farm where her sire had stood and where she herself was bred!! The farmer was so glad to see this daughter of his old stallion that he traded the woman a well trained ASB gelding - better for her purposes as a pleasure mount - for the filly right on the spot...and "Miss Pygy" (as we called her, short for Pygmalion and descriptive of her interest in food) had found herself a permanent home....Should have nicknamed her "Lucky" or "Homer" I guess!
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valerie
- Maiden Special Weight
- Posts: 106
- Joined: Tue Nov 09, 2004 6:06 pm
- Location: Indiana/Kansas
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all my old horses and bad doers get beet pulp and max e glo rice bran and very little grain. Beet pulp and the rice bran really help them a lot and the max e glo has added calcium and the beet pulp is high in calcium anyway. Started doing this after we had a couple of cushing horses that could not have any corn or oats added to their feed, per the vet
- Intrinsic Worth
- Starters Handicap
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 2:27 pm
My experience with really bad cribbers is that they usually have some kind of gastric upset that goes along with it. It could be the ulcers caused the cribbing, or that the cribbing aggravates the ulcers, but whatever, there is usually a connection. You can take a stethoscope, put it on a cribber, and hear the roaring activity going on in there... and they can colic at the drop of a hat...
The horse versions of omeprazole are REALLY EXPENSIVE, like $400 a month (ie: Gastroguard). Fenbendazole (Panacur, Safeguard) goes a long way toward easing the stomach while knocking off the parasites, so a 10-animal tube of Safeguard ($36) (give it to him for 10 days) will settle his stomach. If you add SMZ's to the mix, the antibiotic will kill any tiny infected pockets that may pop up or exist in his stomach... Put a muzzle on him between feedings to get him to STOP cribbing so that his stomach can heal. Get him completely off any sweet feed or complex grain that contains any corn or molasses whatsoever (they AGGRAVATE a bad stomach). My cribbers are on straight oats (18 lb a day) and are fat as ticks. Once you have done the Safeguard, you can probably omit the muzzle and go back to a collar. Note it has to be TIGHT across the forehead to work. Then, you can buy the biggest bottle you can find of the cheapest peppermint-flavored antacid tablets and put 8 or 10 per feeding in his grain. Make sure he ALWAYS has hay to chew on. Good luck.
The horse versions of omeprazole are REALLY EXPENSIVE, like $400 a month (ie: Gastroguard). Fenbendazole (Panacur, Safeguard) goes a long way toward easing the stomach while knocking off the parasites, so a 10-animal tube of Safeguard ($36) (give it to him for 10 days) will settle his stomach. If you add SMZ's to the mix, the antibiotic will kill any tiny infected pockets that may pop up or exist in his stomach... Put a muzzle on him between feedings to get him to STOP cribbing so that his stomach can heal. Get him completely off any sweet feed or complex grain that contains any corn or molasses whatsoever (they AGGRAVATE a bad stomach). My cribbers are on straight oats (18 lb a day) and are fat as ticks. Once you have done the Safeguard, you can probably omit the muzzle and go back to a collar. Note it has to be TIGHT across the forehead to work. Then, you can buy the biggest bottle you can find of the cheapest peppermint-flavored antacid tablets and put 8 or 10 per feeding in his grain. Make sure he ALWAYS has hay to chew on. Good luck.
- Intrinsic Worth
- Starters Handicap
- Posts: 691
- Joined: Sat Dec 11, 2004 2:27 pm
Equine Senior is a good feed to use for a horse who has ulcers.
As for putting weight on, I give my horse a weird mixture of a half a water bucket of alfalfa cubes, half a scoop of Max E Glo, 1 cup of oil, 1 scoop of electrolytes and I fill the bucket with water covering everything. I let this sit for 20 minutes or until the water has soaked into the alfalfa cubes (horses have been known to choke on alfalfa cubes that aren't soaked in water.) A half a bucket of cubes with water will expand to an entire bucket full. My horse gets this 3 times a week in the winter for an extra boost of fat and it really works. He also gets oats and grass hay to eat as well.
As for putting weight on, I give my horse a weird mixture of a half a water bucket of alfalfa cubes, half a scoop of Max E Glo, 1 cup of oil, 1 scoop of electrolytes and I fill the bucket with water covering everything. I let this sit for 20 minutes or until the water has soaked into the alfalfa cubes (horses have been known to choke on alfalfa cubes that aren't soaked in water.) A half a bucket of cubes with water will expand to an entire bucket full. My horse gets this 3 times a week in the winter for an extra boost of fat and it really works. He also gets oats and grass hay to eat as well.
All men are equal on the turf - or under it.